It has been said and written that Central Montana is a hidden paradise with many treasures.

In many ways, it has been proven.

The hunting and fishing opportunities, the central location, the island mountain chains, the scenery.

All of these things make up our hidden paradise.

As do the elk herds on the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge (18).

Nestled in the Missouri Breaks area of extreme southern Phillips County is a normal gravel road with a small sign that says there is wildlife viewing.

The views on this road are spectacular and about five miles or so west, there is another set of small signs. Each of these has the words "no hunting zone" on them.

Somehow, you get the feeling the elk can read the signs as well as the humans.

For it is in this area where a large number of these magnificent animals live and breed.

These great creatures, in fact, are admired, photographed and filmed by humans, especially this time of year.

Mid-September and October is the time when the annual "call of the wild" begins.

Elk bugling.

This phenomenon is almost surreal.

If you have never experienced it, you would swear you were in a scene from Jurassic Park.

The giant trees along the river's edge and the lush meadows make for a perfect setting.

If you get to this location early you can hear the first calls. You can't always see the animals, but they are there.

As time goes by, you begin to see a few of these animals make their way to the front of the wooded area. With binoculars, you begin to see some of the females inch closer to the open meadows.

Shortly thereafter, you might spot one of the large males among the trees and brush.

A little after 7 p.m., you begin to see more of the animals, again inching ever so close to the open meadows but still obscured somewhat by the trees.

By 7:30 (on a hot day, probably earlier in cooler weather), they are out in force. And the chorus which echoes through the pure Montana air is indeed a symphony like has never been heard at Carnegie Hall.

It is a symphony of nature. A timeless call which has been handed down from generation to generation.

A call which has withstood the test of time and a call which will continue for generations to come.

Elk bugling is nature at its finest.

And the people of Central Montana have this natural wonder right in their back yard.

"Elk are very vocal," said Mike Hedrick, refuge manager at CMR. "They are a real social animal."

Elk, he said, are harem breeders.

"A dominant male will gather a group of cows and defend them against other bulls," said Hedrick.

He said the most vigorous of the males will gather the largest number of cows.

At the refuge, the typical dominant male has between five and 15 cows in his harem, said Hedrick.

Normally, a male can dominate a harem during the ages of four to 10 years. After that, he said, males typically are too old to be dominant.

The largest of the elk bugle first each evening, said Hedrick. He said bugling is typically triggered by the amount of light.

In the recent hot weather, he said the bugling starts a little later.

However, Hedrick emphasized no matter what the weather patterns are, the elk calves have to be born at a certain time in the spring so the breeding has to take place this time of year.

Male elk live into their teens, said Hedrick. He said the bulls have a higher mortality rate than females. That is because of fighting and a higher rate of energy expenditure in their lives.

Females, on the other hand, live quite a bit longer, he said.

Most live into their late teens and early to mid-20s, he said.

When he worked at the Jackson Hole, Wyo., elk refuge, Hedrick said officials documented a female which was 27 or 28 years old.

The elk "sanctuary" located on CMR has 150 to 200 elk which come out in the evening.

Hedrick said they will be bugling into October as the males continue to establish the hierarchy.

To protect the integrity of the entire phenomenon, people are asked to follow the refuge rules and to use common sense.

Persons are discouraged from walking around away from their vehicles.

Hedrick suggests people stay right by their vehicle. He said the elk have learned the area is a sanctuary and sometimes they will get close to the vehicles. People should remain in their vehicles if this happens because the elk are dangerous.

He also suggested taking a telephoto lense and binoculars.

Additionally, Hedrick said persons must stay on the road. This is critical for the elk, he said. No vehicles or people are allowed off the road in the no hunting area.

Hedrick also discourages people bugling at the elk in an attempt to draw them closer.

"Sit, watch, listen and enjoy," he said.

Normally, Hedrick said there are between five and 30 vehicles in the area. The higher number is usually on the weekends.

Though somewhat domesticated, Hedrick said they are not like the Yellowstone Park or Glacier Park elk. Those animals have absolutely no fear of people. The CMR elk are still fairly wild, he said, and can be dangerous to humans.

"We encourage people to go out there and view the elk," said Hedrick. "This is an opportunity for people in this part of the state to do something that is only found elsewhere in Yellowstone and Glacier.

"It is a real opportunity to see elk behaving naturally. This is the most consistent opportunity for people to see big game in this area."

In the viewing area, there are around 150 to 200 elk, Hedrick said. On the entire refuge – which is 1.1 million acres – there are 4,000 to 5,000 elk, he said.

Hedrick said people from Havre, Great Falls and Billings travel to the refuge to see this phenomenon. Wednesday night, a license plate from Pennsylvania was spotted.

Visitation at the elk viewing area and on the refuge in general is up, said Hedrick. "Our overall use is increasing."

Hedrick feels the popularity of Fort Peck Lake, the Wild and Scenic Missouri River and the approaching Lewis and Clark Centennial all will lead to even more use of the refuge.

He said the dominant comment made by persons who visit CMR is they "really like the primitive character of the refuge."

Keeping it primitive is an objective of refuge officials.

And nothing could be more primitive, or enjoyable, than taking an evening and watching nature shine as the elk harmonize the way they have since before man walked on the face of the earth.sidebar: Elk bugling checklist

To have a great experience viewing the elk on CMR, there are a few essentials you should take along.

• A pair of binoculars.
  
• A camera with a telephoto lens.
  
• Refreshments. (Plan on one to two hours.)
  
• Bug spray.
  
• A video camera. (Optional)
  
• Patience. (Mandatory)
  

And elk bugling is just one of the many interesting attractions in Central Montana. Read on to find about all of the other interesting places in the area.

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Maiden ghost town (3)

This town is located just east of the current town of Maiden.

To get there, take Highway 191 to the Maiden Canyon turnoff, which is about nine miles north of Lewistown. Turn east and go through the town of Maiden (about 10 miles) and you can see a couple of old buildings and one prominent ruin.

This ghost town has very few ruins, but quite a storied history.

In fact, the town of Maiden probably should have been the Fergus County seat.

Permanent settlement of Maiden came in 1880 with the discovery of gold in the Judith Mountains.

By 1886, the mining camp of Maiden reached its peak with 1,500 residents and was the trading center for the entire area.

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Gilt Edge ghost town (16)

There are two ways to get to this site.

Persons can take Highway 87 east of Lewistown to the Cheadle turnoff and go north. Also, you can take the road to Maiden and simply continue on through Maiden Canyon. This is a very scenic Central Montana trip.

Gilt Edge has several ruins, including a house of prostitution which still has some of the tattered silk wallpaper hanging. But the house is in very serious decay and dangerous to enter.

Across the street from this house is an old jail, about the size of a small horse stall.

It is alleged the notorious Martha Canary, aka Calamity Jane, spent a winter in Gilt Edge in the late 1890s. Many accounts tell of her presence there, and she was photographed with Teddy Blue Abbott, author of “We Pointed Them North,” in Gilt Edge itself.

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Kendall ghost town (4)

There are two ways to get to the Kendall site.

From the south, take Highway 191 north to the Denton turnoff. Take Highway 81 to the small town of Brooks (only a couple of miles) and turn right on a gravel road. Follow the signs to the site.

From the north, take the gravel county road west from Hilger and follow the signs.

Kendall ghost town is the best preserved of all of the sites.

There are significant ruins, including the church, and the old bank vault is still in pretty good shape.

Tour all three

All three of these areas are historically significant and make for a fun time for all. You can learn history and take in some great scenery.

Probably the best way to take the tour would be to start in Lewistown and head east on Highway 87.

Turn left at Cheadle and go to Gilt Edge.

From there, continue on the road through Maiden Canyon. It’s a beautiful drive.

Before going to the Maiden site, you can take a side trip and travel up to Judith Peak, the highest point in the Judiths. The views from this site are spectacular.

After coming back down the mountain, head towards the town of Maiden. The ruins are located east of the current town.

After Maiden, continue west on the paved road for a couple of miles and then take a right on the old stage coach road. (If it has rained or is raining, don’t try this road!!)

The dirt road takes you to the town of Hilger, where there are food and restroom facilities. From Hilger, take the county road west to the Maiden site.

On the way back, take a right at the fork in the road and head toward Brooks. Turn left and go to Highway 191 where you will take a right and drive back to Lewistown.

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Fort Maginnis (2)

This historic site features ruins of the 1880 Frontier Post. The military post was crucial in the development of the area.

Also near Fort Maginnis you will find a cemetery with several graves, including the grave of Teddy Blue Abbott, a famed western author.

Take Highway 87 west of Lewistown, turn left toward Gilt Edge and follow the signs. You may also take the road through Maiden Canyon to get to Fort Maginnis.

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Crystal Lake and Big Snowy Mountains (7)

Depending on the season, a variety of recreational activities are possible at this scenic wonderland which is located in the Big Snowy Mountains.

There are several access routes available, but the lake is most easily reached by following U.S. Highway 87 west of Lewistown about 12 miles. Turn left (south at the Crystal Lake sign on a gravel road and travel another 10 miles before going an additional nine miles on Forest Service Road 275 to the lake.

Nestled on the northwestern slope of the Big Snowy Mountains, Crystal Lake, at around 6,000 feet, is a shallow alpine lake stocked with rainbow trout each year.

Trails in the area offer opportunities for hiking, back-packing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, primitive camping, picnic facilities, fishing, developed campground and related activities.

Recently, a trail access system for handicapped persons was developed.

For complete information, contact the Judith Ranger District in Stanford at 406-566-2292.

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North and South Moccasin Mountains (4,5)

This tour begins by taking U.S. 191 north of Lewistown about 9.5 miles; turn left on Montana Highway 81 and go about two miles and you will see the town of Brooks. This early ag community was also home to the Judith Mountain Players, a local theater group which performed until the late 1950s.

You can then travel to the town of Kendall by turning right on the gravel road and following a scenic valley through the foothills of the North Moccasin Mountains. (See above information about Kendall.)

Traveling back from Kendall, turn left at the fork in the road and you will come to the town of Hilger. David Hilger founded this community when the Winifred branch of the Milwaukee Railroad came through in the early 1900s. In Hilger, you will find restroom and restaurant facilities.

Also in the area you will find Gigantic Warm Springs (5). Take Highway 191 north of Lewistown, turn west on Highway 81 toward Denton. Go approximately 3.5 miles and you will see a sign. Turn right to get to the location. There is a small admission charge.

Another attraction in this area is the Hanover (Spring Creek) trestle. Travel three miles north of Lewistown on U.S. 191; turn left on State Highway 426 and go about eight miles and the trestle will be on your left. The trestle is a railroad bridge 1,391 feet long and up to 78 feet high. It is constructed entirely of milled timber, with the exception of two rectangular steel firebreak bents which divided the structure into approximate thirds.

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Judith Mountains and Camp Maiden (13, 14)

You can travel east or north to take a tour of the famed Judith Mountains, named by the Lewis & Clark expedition.

Travel north on U.S. 191 approximately 10 miles and turn right on the Maiden Canyon turnoff. You can travel east on Highway 200 to the Cheadle turnoff, where you turn north and go to the ghost town of Gilt Edge before heading into the Judiths.

If you travel north, turn right at the Maiden Canyon turnoff and go approximately 10 miles to the town of Maiden. The U.S. Air Force had a big influence on this town but no military presence exists today. Just east of the Maiden you will find the ghost town of the old Maiden townsite. (See above information.)

Maybe the most spectacular view in all of Central Montana is from Judith Peak. About a mile past the old ghost town, turn left at the fork and continue about six miles. The gravel road is well maintained.

Judith Peak is the highest (5,808 feet) peak in the Judith Mountains. Because of its lofty location, it offers outstanding views of the surrounding mountains and prairie landscapes. Visible from this point are the Snowy Mountains (30 miles south), Little Belts (70 miles southwest), North and South Moccasin Mountains (20 miles west), Highwood Mountains (70 miles west), Bear Paw Mountains (70 miles northwest), Little Rockies (70 miles northwest) and the Missouri River, entrenched in the Missouri River Breaks about 50 miles to the north.

On your way back down the mountain, you can visit Camp Maiden. This 40 acre camp was dedicated for the use of Fergus County residents in 1942. Use of the camp and camp sites is accessed by calling 406-538-3919.

Located past Camp Maiden is Collar Gulch. It is only accessible by hiking. The remnants of the Collar Gulch Mill are located on the right at the bottom of the hill.

Once you come back to the fork in the road, turn left and continue toward Gilt Edge. The drive, approximately three miles, is through a beautiful canyon with sheer rock faces and other formations of interest.

You will emerge from the mountains onto the prairies and the ghost town of Gilt Edge. (See above information.)

If you travel this route heading east from Lewistown, simply go in reverse of the steps listed above.

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Spring Creek tour

The tour originates at the Big Spring (1) south of Lewistown and flows north through the city. It passes under a three block area of downtown businesses and flows north 16 miles to its confluence with the Judith River southeast of Danvers, then on to the Missouri River.

Big Spring, the third largest fresh water spring in the world, is located in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains. Travel 4.5 miles south on Montana 238, turn right on Montana 266 for two miles. Big Spring is the major source of Spring Creek. Over 90 million gallons of water a day flow out of Big Spring.

Located 6,300 feet below Big Spring is the Mill House, built in 1903. Travel Montana 238 for 4.5 miles, turn right on Montana 466 for about a half-mile. Mill House is on the right.

The Montana State Fish Hatchery (12) is located southeast of Lewistown and is one of the largest fish hatcheries in the west. More than 3 million trout are raised at the hatchery each year. It is located at the Big Spring so follow the above directions. The city of Lewistown maintains a lovely picnic area with shelter and tables, a ball diamond, children’s play area, volleyball court and restrooms, but there is no camping. There is also no charge to use the facility.

Hanson Creek Recreation Area (10), built in the 1970s, is a 60-acre flood control reservoir open for public fishing and non-motorized boat use. Travel about a quarter-mile past the fish hatchery on Montana 466.

East Fork Recreation Area (11) provides fishing, boating (no-wake boat speed applies) and general recreation. Facilities include picnic tables, charcoal grills, restrooms, a campground and boat launch site. Travel on Montana 238 south for 12 miles.

Ackley Lake (6) is a man-made lake stocked with very good trout. Travel west from Lewistown on Highway 87 past Moore and Eddie’s Corner. Continue on to near Hobson and follow the signs. The lake is south of the Hobson area.

Carters Pond (15) is located about four miles north of Lewistown on Highway 191. Good fishing is available in the two ponds. Ice fishing is also an opportunity in the winter months, but be sure to check for ice thickness.

Still more attractions

For bowhunting enthusiasts, the Lewistown Bowhunters Association (9) range is located about eight miles east of Lewistown on the “divide” on Highway 87. Watch for the signs.

The Missouri Breaks are located in extreme northern Fergus County and are part of the Wild and Scenic Upper Missouri River (17) system. Canoeing the river is a very popular recreation in Central Montana and there is also a self-guided auto tour. There are several ways to see the area. Travel north of Lewistown to Hilger and turn north toward Winifred. You can take the Knox Ridge Road east to James Kipp State Park (8). Be sure to check with local officials for road information, especially if there is rain.

If you continue north from Winifred, you can ride the Stafford Ferry during the warm months. It is one of the few ferries still operating in the state. To get to James Kipp State Park, you can take Highway 191 north from Lewistown to the Missouri Breaks area. The park was recently refurbished with new camping facilities, rest rooms, a boat ramp and other recreation opportunities.

Also in the area is the C.M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge (18). It is a large refuge which stretches clear to the eastern reaches of Montana. Hunting and wildlife viewing opportunities abound on the refuge. The office for the refuge is located in Lewistown on Airport Road on the city’s west side.

The refuge surrounds gigantic Fort Peck Lake (19), a world-class recreation area in the heart of Montana. The lake has over 1,200 miles of shoreline and some of the best walleye fishing in the world.

From Lewistown, you can access the lake at Crooked Creek north of Winnett. Take Highway 87 west to Grass Range and continue west on Highway 200. Turn north at the Crooked Creek turnoff at Winnett and follow the signs for approximately 50 miles.

Crooked Creek features a marina and access to one of the best lakes in the world. There are also access points at various other locations all around the lake. Be prepared to travel long distances to access these points.

For more information on any of these destinations, contact the Lewistown Area Chamber of Commerce at 406-538-5436. It is especially important to call ahead if you think road conditions to your destination are questionable. You may also call police officials or the highway department to inquire about road conditions.